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Fabrics: Design & Technology
Most fabrics are made by weaving or knitting yarns together. Non-woven fabrics are made by bonding or felting fibres together. A fabric's appearance, properties and end-use can be affected by the way it was constructed.
Woven fabrics
A woven fabric consists of two sets of interlacing yarns which lie perpendicular to one another. The yarns can be interlaced in many different ways to produce numerous weave designs. Even with a cursory glance, an untrained eye can see a visual difference in weave designs. Much less apparent is that weaves have different mechanical properties. When choosing a weave design for a particular product, one must consider the aesthetic appearance
of the weave as well as the desired properties.
There are three basic weaves from which all other weaves are derived—a plain, twill and satin.
Plain-weave fabric
In plain-weave the warp and weft are aligned so that they form a simple criss-cross pattern. It is strong and hardwearing.
Twill-weave
In twill-weave the crossings of weft and warp are offset to give a diagonal pattern on the fabric surface. Twill weave is strong and drapes well. Twill weaves have a distinctive diagonal line on the surface of the fabric.
Satin-weave
A satin weave is notable for its smooth surface created by the relatively long warp yarn floats. The warp yarns in a 5-harness satin float over 4 filling yarns.
Knitted fabrics
There are two types of knitted fabrics weft-knitted and warp-knitted.
Weft-knitted fabrics
Weft-knitted fabrics are made by hand or machine.
* Weft-knitted fabric is made by looping together long lengths of yarn. This makes the fabric stretchy and comfortable.
* The yarn runs in rows across the fabric. If a stitch is dropped it will ladder down the length of the fabric.
Warp-knitted fabric
Warp-knitted fabric is made by machine and is used for swimwear.
* Warp-knitted fabric is made by machine.
* The loops interlock vertically along the length of the fabric. Warp knits are slightly stretchy and do not ladder.
Non-woven fabrics
Non-woven fabric is made by bonding or felting:
- Bonded-fibre fabrics are made from webs of fibres bonded together with heat or adhesives. They are cheap to produce, but not as strong as woven or knitted fabrics. Bonded-fibre fabrics are mainly used for interlining. They are easy to sew, crease-resistant, do not fray and are stable to washing and dry-cleaning.
- Wool felt is a non-woven fabric made from fibres matted together using moisture, heat and pressure. Felt has no strength, drape or elasticity but is warm and does not fray. Wool felt is expensive.
Source: http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/design/textiles/fabricsrev_print.shtml; http://www.techexchange.com/thelibrary/itsnot.html
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